Since I was starting with just a bare frame, I figured I would do this right, and do the things I had always wanted too, but didn't.

For this shackle reversal I purchased some steel, from a local metal shop, they will sell you their scraps dirt cheap, or their stock steel for usually book price, and they also will usually order it for you if they are not carrying it.

First off, I obtained about 3 feet of some 3" x 3/8" flat steel (This will be used for the underside of the frame), one foot of some 3" square tube (Front solid spring perch), 48" of 1/2" angle iron (3"x 6") (For the front bumper), and some 50" of 2" x 3/8" bar steel (Used for the shackles themselves). You will also need some shackle hangers to weld onto the top of the frame. I used some rear CJ hangers, but you can use the ones off the YJ frame if you are careful grinding them off, I was but someone threw one away on me.

Here you can see the 3" tube steel that I cut to 6" in length, then notched out one side. I used a chop saw for all this, I had to later on go and cut 3" off the bottom and I did this with a torch, since it was welded on then, and just grind it smooth so it will look pretty, if you care.

NOTE: when you cut that 3" tube steel for the front spring hanger, this is where you can alter your height. Stock- the center of the spring bolt hole is 5 1/2" below the frame, that is why I cut mine to 6", I later cut them down, since I didn't want all that hanging down in the front collecting rocks. My bolt hole is now 2 1/4" below that plate that I welded on (Approx: 2 1/2" down from original frame). I leveled the jeep with the rear shackles (1" longer in rear for me) but this will depend on what front springs you run, engine, winch, etc.

A reminder that when you weld that 3" flat steel across the bottom of the frame, you will need to cut out a semi circle for the steering gear box. Test fit all that with the gear box and mark it out, I torched it out, since no one will see it. I welded that there so the square tube would have a nice solid mounting surface, and later on down the line I will be adding a front hitch receiver and will just weld that to the 3" bar steel under the frame. You will also notice that it sticks out past the frame, I did this for a just in case ever happened, and that case would be to move the spring mounts out past the frame (CJ owners will have to mount their tube steel out past the frame if they are running a uncut Dana 44).

A final look at the front spring mount with it torched off and ground smooth. Also painted with the spring attached.

Here you can see the rear CJ shackle hanger welded onto the top of the frame. You want your shackle to be straight up and down with no weight on it, if you are doing this to your already built jeep, then just mark your frame on top for the mount. Reference that point that you will mark to the spring shackle bolt (It will be an angle from that) how much angle will be up to you and your placement on top of the frame (You will want to keep it close to stock). And a final view with the home made shackle with the spring attached.

All this cost me about $40 for the steel, but I lucked out with the welding, since I did it here on base. And they charge next to nothing. So you will need to find yourself a welder, but in all it only took maybe 15 minutes with a MIG welder. But that was with everything clamped and ready to go. And to weld that 1/2" angle iron, you better have a BIG welder, mine was coated with some superman paint, and we had to crank it up, to get any penetration. If you are working with bare steel you will not have this problem.